Your prints with Voxelizer


#1

Show us what you have printed with Voxelizer :slight_smile:

This can be the place to show off you work and also to discuss more print-quality related issues.


Surface Reconstruction tool crashes
#2

I will start with this memento mori that is sitting on my desk :). Original model from Thingiverse, then edited in Voxelizer, in particular with a TPMS filter. Then quite a bit of time to clean up the print.


#3


This is a game figure (Demogorgon) that I printed for my son. He wanted to see how it looked with the supports so I shipped it to him with the supports on. This is from my CR-10S.


#4

Looks good :slight_smile: Do you remember the settings you used for the support?

Not in all of the presets it’s on by default but there is an option “Reinforce weak areas” that will automatically detect the hanging parts (like the arms/tentacles here), plus the thin ones and will put full support underneath them. In this way you can even set the cutoff angle to 90 degree and be safe, without having support in unnecessary places. In some cases this combination can work very well and usually these figurines are a good example.


#5

The only thing I remember is that I used light supports, but I can’t remember the percentage. I could have printed it a bit finer, but this was my first “real” Voxelizer print.


#6

I think these posts should have their own category.
Doug


#7

A multi color present print (first one for switching over my previously dialed in printer). Obviously my S3D settings don’t translate 1:1 to voxelizer because the print didn’t turn out great. I’ll create a new thread outlining those.


#8

Getting there with my profile with the palette (best calibration print yet for both extrusion and color).


#9

Crane Quad
Supposed to be an iris box, but the voxel conversion merged some of the interior mechanics. Turned out as a cool bowl instead.



#10

Globe model. Turned out good. Things seem dialed in. Looking forward to the next iteration on texture mapping and vertex colors off of models. Those workflows don’t work for me currently.


#11

@sohjsolwin could you link us to the original model? The voxel conversion should not be destructive in this sense.


#12

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1811143
This was the model I started with, then I used the “Q” tool to paint some color onto the model (separating the painted part, then applying different graidents to each)


#13

All right you probably voxelized the model directly but in this case what you should do is to split the loose parts in the Scene editor. In this way every independent part of the model will become a separate voxel object, thus preserving the mechanics.

split

For this kind of models where precision is crucial you also probably want to force the voxel precision, to Detailed or at least Balanced, even though this might slow down the operations for bigger objects.

precision

You can then use the Tree structure panel to control the visualization of the different parts while you make your changes.


#14

Testing various filaments on my Crane quad. Still dialing things in but mostly focusing on color. Being able to save color presets would come in handy for trying to figure out real world vs software values.

55


#15

This feature will come.


#16

Latest quad print, testing no artifact with sharp color changes. The quad transitioned a lot faster than I thought it would. Excuse the gaps, I did get rid of stringing in this print but went a little too far with the coasting which is why the gaps in the belly, left chin, and eyes are there.


#17

No artifact? Wow I’m surprised too.


#18

Yeah, you can see some color bleed in the tail and other places but yes very good for no artifact. The key is white not black so that helps a bit, black still is by far the color that takes the longest to purge but even so it did better than I thought it would. If only I could source a barely transparent magenta instead of pink and I’d be pretty happy.

Black is very overpowering but I’ve been playing with for “black” to lower the key and up CMY evenly (ie. C15 M15 Y15 B55) to still keep the black color but lower transition times.


#19

The racing frog!


#20

Wow very cool @pyroclasmx! What method did you use? Was the object made of multiple parts already?