Multi Color Choice VS Colors Printed Problems


#1

Being extremely new to Voxelizer and the Quad Crane, I’ve done a few sample prints. I have two questions:

1.- After searching for how to’s, I came across one (hard to find) that separated parts for applying different colors. I imported the files into Voxelizer, applied the different colors needed and then printed the Parrot. I didn’t think it came out too bad at all until I noticed that there was a noticeable discoloring through some parts. For example, I colored the eyes blue and the body red. It looks like the blue carried through the infill layers of the blue and red. Am I missing a process to prevent this?
2.- I need my printed colors to be exactly how it looks on Voxelizer. I printed two combined stl files that I imported (mr & mrs sign with two small hearts), selected the colors and hit next to create the gcode. It stated there was overlapping. I had to combine the files and manually color the two hearts. I created the gcodes and printed them. the two colors I needed was the main part to be white and the two hearts to be red. When printed, I noticed a light pink on the main part and a darker pink when it should of been red. I also tried with the main color to be black and the hearts to be red. The black was fine but the red hearts came out a mix.
How can I correct this problem? unfortunately the photos wont upload.


#2

This is most likely because we start the purge extrusion from the infill. You can disable this behavior by turning off the “Start from infill” setting.

Unfortunately getting good results from material mixing is more an art than a science. You have to experiment with your filaments and see what works better. From what you wrote it looks like you need more purging during the transition from one color to another. You can achieve this by increasing the “Minimum artifact length parameter”. Keep in mind that white is a “weak” color, meaning it will keep very easily traces of other filaments where black is a “strong” and intrusive one that will tend to show up in the other colors you are printing with.


#3

Thank you for the response. I’m still trying to find my way around this program. I’m going to try your responses and hope with a little more experience from me and your input, I can correct my settings.


#4

I am also a prusa user and I think they got a better waste wall (Artifact) option then vox… (Tho the new mk3S mmu2 is jaming a lot) what I noticed is the artifact or the purge brim are NOT the first things printed!!! why???

If we are trying to get a specific color to start< why is the system not clearing out from whatever was last printed and then goes to the print item??? I see this being the main issue, so far, with the artifact options…

after reading on this forum I am trying the PRUGE option… I am not seeing a pill of filament but I just started a new test…


#5

Hi @mainstreetmarvels, the artifact is not the first point of purge because we have the “Start from infill” turned on by default, which makes it start the transition from the infill. We made this choice in order to save some printing time and material but you can disable it.


#6

I tried to replay to the email response I received when you “replied to my post” but the message was returned as a bad sending address, so here is the message I want tech support to read

I did disable it and also increased the minimum amount of artifact

![image1.jpeg](blob:https://community.voxelizer.com/

f8784b49-c0fb-4fc9-bae0-531c93f730e7)

That beautiful first layer is my mk2 prusa

This is my back side of my beautiful stock settings on either my mk2 or mk3 prusa


And this muddy pink and tinted grey and greenish yellow is after a month of trying with your machine, 3 emails that are answered with too short of a reply, and no real help or guidance.

Even with the infill OFF!!! The first layer is the pink in the print above. Not the waste wall. Not once have I seen you guys give a real answer on “how much min artifact should I use. I can tell you 25mm is useless. And 70 with out infill is not enough too.

But no matter what I do as a min amount, IT STILL will not clean the needle on the artifact or purge before it goes to the desired design.

I have 10 printers. And only the 2 m3d’s can not make me one reasonable print… that’s my frustration.

“Color changes is not a science, it’s like an art”. I saw that as one of your companies answers to someone talking about a bleeding red and white product… that never should be a answer. That answer give no help or direction.

Not once did I see a reply like this…

Hi customer…

Ya the color changes can be difficult, sorry about that… let’s try this:

(Insert pic of screen with different no factory setting).

Min artifact for light colors should be xxxmm

The infill should be off

The x and y settings should be???xxxx

Oh by the way, what filament are you using so we can start tracking other user issues and figure out as a team what lengths work for different companies colors!!!

See the difference!!! And I am also one of the customers that has tried to pay you the $300+ for the lifetime license of your product… I am not asking for anything for free, I have always believed you get what you pay for and I want to pay you for a software that works and customer service that is helpful.

I am about to walk away from $2000 of printers because or this issue.

So… please… help!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone


#7

Dear @mainstreetmarvels, I’m sorry about the problems that you are having anyway, just to clarify, we are not the support service of M3D. We are a different company.
You said that no matter the min amount you still won’t get clear colors. That might well be an hardware issue. Did some other users have the same experience? @greggtwep16 @pyroclasmx @dggrant @sohjsolwin?
Could you send me one of the gcodes that you have tried to print with the related stl? You can also write me on PM.


#8

@mainstreetmarvels
As @agiachino mention, voxelizer is a separate company from M3D and do not and cannot give you exact information on how or why something doesn’t work to your satisfaction.

As to your dissatisfaction with the “Color changes is not a science, it’s like an art” statement, well, I’m sorry but that’s the truth. EVERY 4 spools of filament, especially if they’re not “color matched” will require different mixtures and different purge lengths to get the colors you want and to fully transition, black taking longer than most others to fully purge. You have to experiment and adjust mixtures until you find the specific colors you’re trying to mix.

Voxelizer’s display is just a representation of how it can look, but it will never be identical simply due to the nature of RGB/Light based colors on your screen versus pigment based colors in the filament. Again, you have to experiment to find the color ratios in voxelizer that produce the colors you want.

From your photo of the machine, I can see the white (the key in the CMYK for color mixing) is in Port 1, which is usually the magenta port, IIRC. If you’re trying to mix and not getting the expected colors, having the colors in the wrong ports compared to what voxelizer is preconfigured to expect could be one problem. You would need to swap the colors around either on the print head or in vox.
If you’re instead just trying to use it as a 4 color print head and not mix colors, while generally not recommended (other tools designed specifically for 4 distinct colors generally work better, after all this is a 4 color mixing print head), it is possible. Though again, you have to experiment and figure out how much purge is enough to fully transition for the filaments you’re using, especially if they are not “color calibrated”, which typically means all the pigment particles are the same size in each spool and between each spool so that purge times are more consistent. You still have to figure out what purge works best for the colors you’re trying to produce, but once you have that number for a color calibrated roll, it should be consistent for that color from that manufacturer going forward.

It sounds like you also have issues with voxelizer, namely around wanting it to print the purge block first before beginning on any part of the print, is that correct? If so, that is something the voxelizer team in this forum can help you with, and it looks like that’s exactly what the Vox team tried to help you with at the beginning. I recommend sticking to that issue and they should be able to help you figure out the right combination of settings in order to begin the print by performing a purge first.

Personally, I think beginning the print in a color mixing head by purging would be a useful distinct setting, something like “Initial Purge” so it can reset properly first thing on a new print, since the printer and vox would have no real idea what color previously was being printed and how long that color needed to purge. An “Initial Purge” and per color purge length settings should be sufficient (though ideally you would have a matrix of purge lengths to define each purge needed between each mixed color in the print, since technically every color pair could have different purge times between them).


#9

I have to agree with @sohjsolwin on everything he stated on his post. Before I start any print on the Quad I manually purge all of the filaments to make sure the head is clean and then when starting a print I make sure that enough purge has been set to get the initial color down. There is a large area in the nozzle “The mixing area” where filament is melted and pushed out of the nozzle. This means that it will take more material pushed out of the nozzle to get a clean transition on your print.

There are no tools that exist today that can give you a 100% color match between the screen and reality. Using something like the MMU on a Prusa will get you close because you not mixing you’re just feeding that single filament at a time into the nozzle. Comparing a mixing nozzle to the mmu is not really an apples to apples comparison because they really are doing completely different things (I own a Crane Quad and a Prusa MK3S/MMU2S).

If you are not getting a decent color transition at around 120-150mm purge then there there is something else going on which would more likely be an issue on the printer or configuration. I know early on I had a hard time getting the colors to transition because my esteps were not calibrated just right which caused filament to linger in the nozzle longer because the pressure and feed that I expected was not actually happening.

I would say going through full calibration of the printer and adjusting settings in vox will be what it takes to overcome the issues you are experiencing.


#10

@sohjsolwin @pyroclasmx thank you for sharing you experiences.

If I understood your idea, I think that you can achieve this by setting the material of the bottom artifact. You could use a skirt for example and maybe also add an additional purge line via the context menu.